Musée de la Vie Romantique, Paris (Complete Guide – Top 15 Tips)

This rustic 1830 house gives off warm vibes with its unique location at the foot of Montmartre Hill in Paris’ 9th arrondissement. The Musée de la Vie Romantique, or the Museum of Romantic Life, is a warm, calm walk mainly through the works of the romantic literary figure George Sand and the Dutch-born painter Ary Scheffer.

The Museum is a hidden gem that is often disregarded amid the bustling life of the French Capital. In this article, we’ll learn more about Musée de la Vie Romantique and why it should be on your itinerary the next time you’re in Paris.

We’ll talk about its history, collections, online museum, activities, and some important tips to consider before visiting. We’ll also include the top recommendations for hotels and restaurants close to the museum and some TripAdvisor reviews of the museum.

History of the Musée de la Vie Romantique

The history of the country-style mansion or hôtel particulier goes back to 1830 when it was built to become the Paris residence of the prominent Dutch-born painter Ary Scheffer. Ary was born to two artistic figures in the Dutch scene: his father, Johan Bernard Scheffer, was a portrait painter, and his mother, Cornelia Lamme, was a portrait miniature painter.

Ary attended the Drawing Academy in Amsterdam from the age of 11. Following his father’s death, he moved to Lille in France upon encouragement from the renowned Dutch figure Willem Bilderdijk. In 1811, Ary moved with his mother to Paris, where he started attending the École des Beaux-Arts and became one of Pierre-Narcisse Guérin’s pupils. His brothers later followed them to Paris.

Ary’s exhibitions began in 1812 when he started to show his work at the Salon de Paris. By 1817, he was recognized and asked two years later to draw a portrait of the Marquis de Lafayette. With his growing reputation and political activity, alongside his brothers, he was commissioned to be the drawing teacher of Louis Philippe I, when he was the Duke of Orleans.

After the overthrow of King Charles X following the 1830 riots, Ary rode to Louis Philippe I, alongside journalist Adolphe Thiers, asking him to lead the resistance. Some days later, Louis Philippe I was crowned King of the French.

Due to his strong ties with the new King, Ary Scheffer’s artistic career prospered greatly. They taught painting lessons in their workshop, along with his younger brother, Hendrik. So many paintings bearing Ary’s signature were produced during this period, which lasted the length of Louis Philippe I’s reign, that it is unknown how many of them were Arys himself.

Ary and his daughter Cornelia regularly hosted Friday evening salons at his house, which is currently home to the Musée de la Vie Romantique. The attendance included many prominent artistic figures, from composer Frédéric Chopin, who attended with his neighbour George Sand, to author and poet Alphonse de Lamartine. Later, several more literary figures joined them, including the one and only, Charles Dickens.

After Louis Philippe I’s abdication in 1848 and the June Uprising of the same year in Paris, Scheffer began to withdraw from political life. This resulted in his refusal to draw portraits of the new monarch, Napoleon III, and his family, which led to Scheffer’s fall out of favour with the new royals.

After that, Scheffer became dedicated to travel, frequently travelling to the Netherlands, Belgium, Germany, and England. He became a French citizen in November 1850. His failing heart confined him to rest and eventually led to his death in 1858 in his summer house in Argenteuil, in the northwestern suburbs of Paris.

Who is George Sand?

The renowned artist of her time, George Sand, whose works are also on display in the museum, was more prominent in her time, even more prominent than Victor Hugo and Honoré de Balzac in England. She was also a novelist, journalist, and memoirist.

Born Amantine Lucile Aurore Dupin, her father had a distant relation to Augustus II the Strong, King of Poland and elector of Saxony. She was also distantly related to King Louis Philippe, as they shared ancestors from German and Danish ruling families. Known to her family and friends as “Aurore”, she lived most of her childhood with her grandmother in the village of Nohant in Berry despite being born in Paris.

Aurore was one of many prominent 19th-century women in Paris who wore male attire instead of the usual noblewoman attire. Back then, it was legally required for any woman who decided to dress in male clothes to obtain a legal permit. However, Sand did so without obtaining a permit, and she justified her situation by saying that such clothes were more comfortable and cheaper. She gave her access to places where even women of her social status were barred.

By the age of 27, Sand was the most famous writer of her time in Europe, a fame that continued long after her death. She was so popular that four editions of her complete works were published during her lifetime. Sand’s writings often drew inspiration from her own experiences, such as her pastoral novels La Mare au Diable, based on her childhood in the countryside, and A Winter in Majorca, describing the time she spent on the island with Frederic Chopin.

In addition to her literary side, Sand was also politically active, writing literary criticism and political texts. Following the 1848 Revolution, her allegiance changed from siding with the poor to becoming a complete Republican. She died at the age of 71 in 1876 in the village of Nohant, near Châteauroux, and was buried in the private graveyard behind the chapel at Nohant-Vic.

George Sand attended literary evenings at the Ary Scheffer hôtel, particularly with her neighbour, composer Frédéric Chopin. The mansion remained in Scheffer’s family long after his death until it became a museum in 1982, with the name “Musée Renan-Scheffer.” This museum joins two other museums in Paris as Paris’ literary museums: “Maison de Balzac” and “Maison de Victor Hugo.”

Jacques Garcia, a French architect, undertook a massive restoration project on the building, under the direction of Anne-Marie de Brem. Reopened in 1987 as the Musée de la Vie Romantique, the new museum lived its golden years under the direction of Daniel Marchesseau for 13 years, starting in November 1998.

Marchesseau organized a series of exhibitions and acquisitions that significantly increased the number of visitors to the museum. Daniel Marchesseau retired from his position in the winter of 2013, and the new director and successor, Jérôme Farigoule, was appointed immediately.  

Since 2013, the Musée de la Vie Romantique has been incorporated into the public institution of the City of Paris Museums, which includes 13 other museums in the city besides the Museum of Romantic Life.

Collections of the Musée de la Vie Romantique

The Museum of Romantic Life is divided into two studios: a greenhouse, a paved courtyard, and a small garden. The first floor of the museum displays several mementoes and personal belongings of the Romanticism figure George Sand. These include family portraits, jewellery, memorabilia, some of her rare watercolours, and even some household possessions. Also are plaster casts of Sand’s sensuous right arm and of Chopin’s delicate left hand.

On the second floor, there are works by several artists, most prominently by Ary Scheffer, such as a portrait of the famous singer Pauline Viardot and Princesse Marie d’Orléans. There are also works by other contemporary artists, such as François Bouchot, François Debon, and Camille Roqueplan, and sculptures by famous artists such as Barre, Dantan, and Bartholdi.

Tips about Musée de la Vie Romantique

There are several things to remember when visiting the Museum of Romantic Life. These are as follows:

1. Access to the museum is granted after presenting a vaccination pass for those over 16 and a health pass for those between 12 and 15. This is done by enforcing regulations in France to combat the COVID-19 pandemic.
2. The museum has permanent exhibitions and temporary ones.
3. Admission is accessible to the permanent exhibitions.
4. The upcoming exhibition in the permanent studio is “Romantic Heroines”, on April 6^th, 2022.
5. Admission to the permanent exhibitions can sometimes be subject to charges if a temporary exhibition takes place and occupies the rooms of the permanent exhibitions as well.
6. You can buy a donation ticket as a form of support to the museum.
7. Admission to the temporary exhibition is available after buying a ticket.
8. The ticket price for the temporary exhibition varies according to the exhibition.
9. It is preferable to reserve your ticket to a temporary exhibition online through the museum’s official website.
10. Musée de la Vie Romantique is open every day from 10:00 am to 6:00 pm.
11. The museum closes on Mondays and official holidays of 1 January, 1 May and 25 December.
12. The in-house ticket office closes at 5:45 pm.
13. The last access to the museum is at 5:45 pm.
14. The installation of an elevator makes all exhibition halls, except for the main pavilion, easily accessible to people with reduced mobility.
15. Digital devices are giving virtual tours, which are available upon request.

When is access to the Temporary Exhibitions free?

There are several cases when entry to the museum’s temporary exhibitions is free of charge. These are as follows:

• Upon presentation of proof, visitors with hearing disabilities and their companions can access temporary exhibitions free of charge.

In this regard, the museum offers tours with sign language and lip-reading.

• Access to temporary exhibitions is also accessible for blind or visually impaired visitors and their companions upon presentation of proof.

In this regard, guide dogs are allowed to enter the museum, and a Braille guide is available at the museum reception.

• Visitors with reduced mobility are granted free access to the museum’s temporary exhibitions. They and their accompanying person also have priority when heading to the ticket desk.

In this regard, the main exhibition rooms are accessible through staircases, which isn’t suitable for visitors with reduced mobility. In compensation, a free-of-charge digital device offers a virtual tour of the rooms’ exhibitions at the ticket desk.

Access to the temporary exhibition, though, is easier. The temporary exhibition hall, installed in the basement, is equipped with an elevator to facilitate mobility. A wheelchair is also available for loan at the front ticket desk.

Musée de la Vie Romantique Guided Tours

The Museum of Romantic Life offers guided tours for adults, families, and children.

Guided Tours for Adults

The guided tours available for adults at the museum are:

• Discovery of the Museum of Romantic Life:

Guided by one of the museum’s lecturers, you are introduced to the museum first through its beautiful garden of roses and lilacs. They would introduce you to the museum collections afterwards, which are divided mainly between two studios. The works of the dreamy Ary Scheffer and some of the personal belongings of the Romanticism era literary figure George Sand.

The tour takes place on Saturdays at 2:00 p.m. and lasts an hour and a half. The full price is 7 Euros, and the reduced rate is 5 Euros. It’s preferable to check the available dates online and book your ticket accordingly.

• Women Artists in the 19^th Century:

Taking place on Tuesdays at 2:00 p.m. for an hour and a half, you are invited to learn more about female artists in the 19th century. The tour also sheds some light on the works of Amantine Lucile Aurore Dupin, or as she is commonly known, George Sand. The ticket price for the tour is 7 Euros, with a reduced rate of 5 Euros.

• Dialogue between the Arts:

Held on Tuesdays at 2:00 pm for an hour and a half, it is an intriguing dialogue between the art styles displayed in the museum. Even though the museum represents Romanticism, every artist has a unique style in expressing their views. This artistic discussion will interest you.

Guided Tours for Families

These are the guided tours offered for families at the museum:

• The museum under the Magnifying Glass:

This tour is a fun and exciting family quest. You are given a map with numerous works displayed on it and asked to search for them through the museum. You are accompanied by a speaker who tells the stories of the paintings you’re searching for.

Families partaking with their children should consider that this tour is available for children ages 7 and up. The tour is available on Saturdays, either at 11:00 a.m. or 4:00 p.m., for an hour and a half. Make sure to check available dates online and book your ticket accordingly. The tour is for 7 Euros, and its reduced rate is 5 Euros.

• The Story Box:

An entertaining “Once upon a time…” family visit. With inspiration drawn from the portraits, paintings, jewellery, and other items on display, the storyteller in the tour weaves a wondrous story for the visitors.

Since children are also included in this tour, it is primarily on Sundays at 4:00 p.m. and Wednesdays on school holidays. The duration of the tour is an hour and thirty minutes. Check your tickets online and book them on the museum’s official website. The paramount ticket price is 7 Euros, and the reduced price is 5 Euros.

• In the Artist’s Studio:

Families and their children, starting at age 7, are invited to discover the materials used in painting from 200 years ago, such as materials ground to produce natural pigments and colours.

This family discovery visit will last an hour and a half. However, no schedule has been announced yet for 2022.

Guided Tours for Children

There are three guided tours available for children at the museum. These are as follows:

• Paper Princes and Princesses:

After their tour through the museum, the children join an origami class where they learn how to make different costumes worn by the various princes and princesses of fairytales. The tour is available for children aged 8 and up with a reduced price ticket of 5 Euros and is conducted on Saturdays for an hour and a half, starting from 4:00 pm.

• Flower Notebook:

The children made a lovely souvenir notebook by looking for and drawing inspiration from flowers in the museum. They are also encouraged to find inspiration in George Sand’s tales, which the storyteller chooses carefully.

Available for ages 6 and up, the tour takes place on Saturdays at 4:00 pm and on Thursdays during school holidays for an hour and a half. The workshop is available for 5 Euros.

• Draw your Portrait at the Museum:

The children are encouraged to draw pencil portraits of one of their classmates, drawing inspiration from the works of the famous painter Ary Scheffer, who once lived in this house. This guided tour is available for children ages 8 and up and takes place on Saturdays at 4:00 pm and Wednesdays during school holidays. The tour is scheduled for an hour and thirty minutes for 5 Euros.

The Online Museum of Musée de la Vie Romantique

A very handy feature of the Museum of Romantic Life is that you can enjoy the different aspects of the museum from the comfort of your home. This feature is also very useful during the lockdown due to the COVID-19 pandemic.

Some creative activities are made available through the museum’s online website. These are as follows:

• Draw, Color and Reinvent the Museum of Romantic Life:

You and your children can colour the museum’s design using a template available on the museum’s website. The museum encourages you to send the artwork to them via their official e-mail.

• Tutorial to Create a Pocket Theater using the Museum’s Collections:

With the help of scissors, markers, papers, and a printer, you’re all set to create your pocket theatre. You can seek inspiration from the works of the museum, act out scenes from these works and fill your pocket theatre book with them. A tutorial is also available on the activity’s page on the website.

• A Game Booklet to Discover the Museum while Having Fun:

The booklet is available for download on the museum’s website. It is a good opportunity to have some fun while admiring the beautiful works on display in the museum. Some pictures in the booklet are clickable, giving you access to information and reproductions of the works.

• Visit the Museum using Museosphere, an Online Application Created for Them:

This application is explicitly created to explore the Museum of Romantic Life, an interactive and entertaining experience your children will love.

• Second Canvas Application:

You can download this application on either iOS or Android to enjoy the museum’s collections in a very high-definition experience. This application allows you to admire the smaller details in the paintings, from the delicate touch of a brush to a piece of jewellery worn by one of the characters.

In addition to the Musée de la Vie Romantique collections on the application, the other member museums in the Museums of the City of Paris Institution are also available on the application.

• Virtually Discover the Museum through 360 degrees photos:

Several photos are available on the website, taken back in 2015, using the 360-degree angle technique. You can discover different parts of the museum through these high-definition images.

• Relive all our Past Temporary Exhibitions:

Many of the museum’s past temporary exhibitions are available on its online museum page. The editions available start in 2015 and end with the last temporary exhibition in 2021.

• All Our Focus Works:

Waltz through four main collections of museum artwork available at this online activity. The collections available are Fine Arts, Graphic Arts, Memorabilia and Archives.

• Podcasts “Speakers have the Floor”:

In this series, the museum’s speakers introduce their favourite pieces from its collections.

• The Collections of the Museum of Romantic Life as part of the Museums of the City of Paris Institution:

As I mentioned before, the Musée de la Vie Romantique has been part of the Museums of the City of Paris Institution since 2013. The museum’s works are available on the institution’s website.

Another interesting online museum in Paris to check out is the Musée d’Orsay!

Workshops offered by Musée de la Vie Romantique

There are multiple workshops offered by the museum for adults as well as workshops for children.

Workshops for Adults

The four seminars offered for adults are:

• Drawing the Sculpture:

You learn about the different drawing techniques by seeking inspiration from the sculptures on display in the museum and using various drawing materials, such as charcoal, pencil, or pastel.

The workshop is scheduled for 11 February, starting at 2:00 pm and going on for three hours.

• Drawing in front of the Works:

Fancy trying your hands at creating a similar masterpiece to one on display in the museum?

Then this workshop is for you! Taking your position amid the beautiful masterpieces in the museum, you are equipped with the necessary materials and guidelines from the instructor. Then, you give recreating the beauty in front of you a try.

This workshop will be held on Friday, 18 March, at 2:00 p.m. and 3:45 p.m. and on Friday, 22 April, at 2:00 p.m. and 3:45 p.m. It will last one hour and thirty minutes.

• Pastel Portrait in the Museum:

This workshop, drawing inspiration from the portraits and paintings on display in the museum, guides participants through the practice of using pastel colours.

The last three-hour Pastel Portrait workshop in the Museum occurred on 14 January 2022. More dates will be available online soon.

• Watercolor Landscape:

With watercolours, you are guided through creating a beautiful landscape, drawing inspiration from the landscapes in the museum’s displayed works.

This workshop usually lasted three hours and took place at 2:00 p.m. on Fridays. So far, no date has been scheduled for 2022.

It’s worth noting that if you’re taking part in any of the above workshops, all the materials are available in the workshop room. You don’t even need to be a master painter, just have the spirit to try!

Workshops for Children

The workshop available for children at the museum is My Pop-Up Museum. The workshop gives children the unique opportunity to create their pop-up museums, using materials that are miniatures of the décor and works displayed at the museum. The workshop is available for kids starting at age 8 on Tuesdays at 2:00 pm and runs for an hour and a half.

The My Pop-Up Museum workshop updated schedule for 2022 hasn’t been announced yet.

Top Hotels near Musée de la Vie Romantique

Many hotels are in the area around the Musée de la Vie Romantique. These are the top-rated ones.

• R. Kipling by HappyCulture (65, rue Blanche, 9th arr., 75009 Paris):

This is a travel-sustainable property by the HappyCulture Hotel group, located in the 9th arrondissement, close to many of the 9th arrondissement landmarks. Asian decorative elements in every hotel room give it a modern feel. The hotel is close to the Moulin Rouge, and the Sacré-Coeur Basilica is nearby as well.

A Standard Double or Twin Room, with your own selection of beds—two twin beds or one queen bed—for a two-night stay will cost 318 Euros, including taxes and charges. If you’d like to enjoy their good continental breakfast, you can pay an additional sum of 14 Euros. This offer includes free cancellation and the option of payment at the property.

• Hôtel Joséphine by Happyculture (67 rue Blanche, 9th arr., 75009 Paris):

Another top-rated hotel is Hôtel Joséphine, which is also a Travel Sustainable Property. The elegantly decorated rooms in the hotel reflect the person after whom the property was named: artist Joséphine Baker. You will also be close to the Moulin Rouge and the Sacré-Coeur Basilica.

The hotel has a bar, a library, and a relaxing lounge area. A two-night stay in a Standard Double or Twin Room with a queen bed will cost 245 Euros plus taxes and charges. This offer includes free cancellation and payment at the property. However, it doesn’t include buffet breakfast; an additional 14 Euros must be paid for that.

Top Restaurants near Musée de la Vie Romantique

• Flesh Restaurant Pigalle et Canal St. Martin (25 rue de Douai, 75009 Paris France):

Number 33 on TripAdvisor’s Restaurant list, Flesh offers Barbecue and European cuisine, as well as gluten-free options. Many reviewers recommend you try the Ribs at Flesh, some even saying they serve the best-cooked ribs in Paris. Their other signature must-try is the garlic fries, perfect to complement any dish you order or even for snacking.

• Gegeor (1 rue Moncey, 75009 Paris France):

French, European and even Vegetarian friendly! After taking your time around the 9th arrondissement and the Saint Georges district, this is what you need. Ranked at number 80 of Restaurants in Paris on TripAdvisor, you should try their cheese charcuterie board and perhaps the Chicken Supreme. With a price range between 6 Euros to 27 Euros, you’re guaranteed a delicious meal in a warm atmosphere.

• Oinari Paris (34 rue la Bruyere, 75009 Paris France):

If you fancy a taste of Japan in the middle of Paris, Oinari is the place to go. One TripAdvisor reviewer described the place as a restaurant during the day that transforms into a Sake Bar and Japanese Tapas at night. Their menu ranges between 10 Euros and 50 Euros, and they have Vegetarian—and Vegan-Friendly options.

TripAdvisor Reviews of Musée de la Vie Romantique

In general, reviews have differed regarding the Museum of Romantic Life visit. However, all reviews agree this is the museum to visit if you fancy some quiet time among beauty. The calming, romantic aesthetic of the displayed works helps put you in a good mood.

Of course, you cannot miss this museum if you’re an art lover. I mean, you can admire some of the beautiful and prominent works from the Era of Romanticism for free!

One reviewer stated that the most enjoyable part of their visit was admiring the house itself. Since the building is a typical style of the 19th-century era in Paris, most of the similar houses around Paris were torn down to make way for modern buildings.

The tea room by the mansion is a nice place to enjoy something warm to drink with a small bite while soaking in the atmosphere.

Another reviewer recommends getting the audio guide at the museum. They said it helped them understand more about the place and the pieces on display.

So, how about a visit to Musée de la Vie Romantique next time you’re in the City of Love?

Do cinematic museums interest you? The Cinémathèque Française, another interesting museum in Paris, is a must-check!