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Ciaran Connolly
Ciaran Connolly
Found in Co. Mayo, Croagh Patrick is a quartzite mountain that reaches 764 metres in height. Nicknamed ‘the Reek’ by locals, the hill is also an essential place of pilgrimage. The pyramid-shaped mountain overlooks Clew Bay and the village of Musk. It is also only a 10-minute drive away from the town of Westport.
In this article, you will find everything about Croagh Patrick, including its history and practical advice for climbing the mountain.
The following sections are included below:
- Why is it called Croagh Patrick?
- Pre-Christian History of Croagh Patrick
- The mythology surrounding Croagh Patrick
- History of Croagh Patrick
- Reek Sunday
- Climbing Croagh Patrick – FAQs and General Advice
Why is it called Croagh Patrick
Croagh Patrick is the anglicisation of the Irish word Cruach Phádraig, which means Patrick’s stack. It is believed that Saint Patrick spent 40 days and 40 nights fasting on top of the mountain, and in the fifth century, a church was built at the mountain’s summit.
Croagh Patrick is pronounced ‘Crow Patrick’
Thousands of pilgrims climb the mountain on the last Sunday of July, which is known as Reek Sunday.
Pre-Christian History of Croagh Patrick
The importance of the mountain predates history itself in Ireland. It was Christian monks who recorded most of the history of Ireland. It is worth noting that some details were altered or removed to suit Christian ideals better. So, for thousands of years before this, history and myth were passed down from generation to generation by word of mouth.
We have learned about Croagh Patrick from the recorded history and the surviving ancient sites.
Long before Saint Patrick arrived, the Reek was considered a holy mountain. Due to the many prehistoric monuments, it is believed that the mountain was a location of spiritual importance dating as far back as the Neolithic period (New Stone Age 3000BC-2000BC) but became more popular during the Bronze Age (2000BC-500BC).
Prehistoric monuments include the Boheh Stone, also known as ‘Saint Patrick’s Chair’, covered with ancient rock art or stone carvings. The stone is located just east of the mountain. It was discovered that in late April and late August, the sun appears to ‘roll’ down the slope of the Reek as it sets when standing at the Boheh stone. It would be foolish to think this is just a coincidence, especially when sites like New Grange highlight how skilled our ancestors were at constructing monuments that integrated natural elements, including the sun.
These months are also significant as they highlight the beginning and end of the growing season. It is reasonable to believe that the first settlers in Ireland made pilgrimages to the mountain, as there is evidence to suggest the history of the holy mountain goes back even further, to the Mesolithic Stone Age (5800BC).
Dozens of Bronze Age huts were found along an enclosure surrounding the mountaintop, with more huts beside it.
The festival of Lughnasadh at Croagh Patrick
Before Saint Patrick made his pilgrimage, the mountain was also the site of the Lughnasadh Festival, celebrated on 1 August. Lughnasadh honoured the Celtic God Lugh of the Tuatha de Danann and celebrated a good harvest. Festivals occurred across the country, including in mountains such as the Reek. It was celebrated as a fire festival. This makes sense, considering the function of the Boheh stone was related to the sun and that Lugh is considered the god of the sun.
One way of celebrating Lughnasadh was by making a pilgrimage to the top of the Reek on 1 August. Considering that Reek Sunday takes place on the last Sunday in July, usually just a few days before 1 August, refuting the connection between the two pilgrimages is hard.
When Christianity arrived in Ireland, many Celtic or pagan holidays were replaced with Christian alternatives. This was likely because it was easier to adapt a holiday to celebrate Christian values than to remove it altogether when it was already so ingrained in society.
You can learn more about Lughnasadh and the three other Celtic festivals (one of which became a holiday you probably celebrate) by reading our article about Famous Irish Traditions!
The Spring Equinox and Croagh Patrick:
Saint Patrick’s Day is celebrated within a few days of the Spring Equinox. The Spring Equinox marks the beginning of Spring, and for pagans, it was one of the most important times of the year as it signified new life and the end of Winter.
Considering Christian feast days have a habit of merging with pagan festivals in Ireland, it is more than possible that ‘Paddy’s Day’ is actually celebrated on 17 March because of the Spring Equinox, not because the saint died on this day, according to New Granges offical website.
It was more than a thousand years after the saint died that 17 March was renamed Saint Patrick’s Day. As we have mentioned, much of Ireland’s history was passed down by word of mouth, so it is more than possible that the connection between the Equinox was lost by the time of recording.
Considering that Equinox celebrates the beginning of the light half of the year and Lughnasadh (the sun god festival) was celebrated in this location in the past, we find this theory fascinating! Even as a native of the West of Ireland, I had never heard of this connection before researching information for this article.
The Equinox line
Allegedly, Saint Patrick arrived at Inber Colpa in Ireland, and the first priest he ordained lit a Paschal fire at Slane to celebrate the beginning of Easter. This was around the time of the Spring Equinox when the High Kings of Ireland lit fires at the Hill of Tara. As we cover in more detail below, lighting a fire before the king at this festival was severely punishable, but the druids soon found Patrick’s fire inextinguishable. So, the conversion to Christianity in Ireland had begun.
The astronomical relevance is that there is a ‘straight line’ that links Croagh Patrick to Slane and then to Millmount mound and the Boyne Estuary (where the Hill of Tara is located), passing through many historic sites along the way.
This straight line can be seen when connecting the locations on a map. It probably has something to do with seeing the sun setting in one location when looking from another. New Grange’s light function at the Winter solstice highlights how skilled the Celts were at astronomy. Standing at Millmount mound in Drogheda, you can see the sun set directly over Slane. Although you can’t see it from Slane, the sun is also setting directly over Cruach Phádraig.
Admittedly, we don’t know as much about astronomy as our ancestors, but you can read more about the equinox line on Mythical Ireland’s website to learn more about the theory.
The Mayo News also wrote an article about the alignment, suggesting that St. Patrick’s journey from East to West was very intentional, and many of the historic sites found along the line were created for the same reason. What do you think?
The mythology surrounding Croagh Patrick
Fact and myth have become intertwined when exploring the life of St. Patrick. The legend of Saint Patrick states that Patrick spent 40 days of Lent (A fasting period leading up to Easter) on Croagh Patrick.
According to myth, Saint Patrick was harassed by demons disguised as blackbirds. He continued to pray and rang a bell to proclaim his faith. As a result of his perseverance, an angel told him that his mission to bring Christianity to Ireland would be successful and that people would remain faithful until Judgement Day.
The bell was originally white in folklore, but it turned black after Patrick banished demons with it.
Other myths involving Saint Patrick
St. Patrick has become an important part of Irish legend. From teaching the Holy Trinity using a three-leafed shamrock to allegedly performing miracles more magical than druids themselves, he is said to have been responsible for spreading the Christian faith around Ireland.
Banishing the snakes from Ireland
Other myths involving Saint Patrick include banishing all snakes from Ireland. It is unlikely that snakes ever existed in Ireland, as there is no archaeological evidence to suggest so, but this story acts as a powerful metaphor.
Snakes were sacred to druids, the ancient priests, judges and scholars of Ireland. So, when Patrick banished the snakes, he essentially banished paganism from Ireland.
Creating the first Celtic Cross
St. Patrick is credited with creating the first Celtic cross. He encountered a group of Celtic people at a standing stone. A circle, representing the pagan sun and moon Gods, was carved into the stone.
St. Patrick is said to have drawn a cross through the circle. This is symbolic because he did not destroy pagan rituals, festivals, or ideas; instead, he showed they could be adapted to the Christian faith.
Magic Fire
The Celtic festival of Bealtaine celebrated the beginning of Summer. Traditionally, the High King of Tara would light a fire at the top of the Hill of Tara. This fire would then light every other fire in the festival. Lighting a fire before the King during the festival was a severe crime.
St. Patrick supposedly lit the first fire of the festival. According to legend, this fire was impossible to extinguish. His act of rebellion was seen as magic more incredible than the king or druids had ever grasped. So they allowed St. Patrick to continue his mission of converting Ireland to Christianity.
History of Croagh Patrick
It is believed that St. Patrick climbed the reek around 441 AD. At that time, it was known as Mons Egli, Croachan Aigli, or Cruachan Aigli.
It was not until 1350, hundreds of years after the Saint’s death (17 March, 465 AD), that the mountain was renamed ‘Cruaich Patrick’. In the sixteenth century, this was anglicised to Croagh Patrick.
National Famine Monument
Did you know the National Famine Monument depicting ‘coffin ships’ is close to Murrisk and Croagh Patrick? Created by Dublin artist John Behan, the memorial commemorates those who died during the Great Famine (1845-1849).
1900’s: The Chapel was built
In 1905, a small chapel was built on top of the mountain’s summit. 100 years later, the chapel’s centenary was celebrated. It was announced that the church would open every day during the summer months (June-August) rather than just on holy days.
The Church was built by 12 local men using stone and cement brought up the mountain by donkeys. It is thought that around 10,000 people attended the dedication ceremony.
1970’s: Night Pilgrimage
Up until 1973, pilgrimages took place at night, after sunset. Since then, they have been completed during the day, which is a much safer way of climbing the mountain.
1980’s: Gold Discovered at Croagh Patrick
During the 1980s, a seam of gold was discovered at Cruach Phádraig. It was estimated that 300,000 troy oz of gold worth over €360 million potentially lay in the area. However, Mayo County Council ultimately decided against mining to preserve the mountain.
During the Bronze Age, gold was plentiful in Ireland. It was believed that the areas surrounding Croagh Patrick, including Clew Bay, were considered the ‘Gold Coast of Ireland’. This beautiful and precious metal would have undoubtedly contributed to the idea that the mountain was a special place.
Reek Sunday
Reek Sunday is the last Sunday in July when many pilgrims climb the mountain. The seven days leading up to the previous Sunday are also known as Reek Week.
Reek Sunday is called ‘Domhnach na Cruaiche’ in Irish and may also be known as Garlands Sunday.
Anywhere from 15,000 to 30,000 people may climb mass on Reek Sunday. This significant difference dramatically depends on the weather conditions.
Why is Croagh Patrick known as the Reek?
Croagh Patrick is commonly known by locals as the Reek. The word ‘reek’ is derived from Irish and means rick or stack.
Climbing Croagh Patrick – FAQs and General Advice
Where is Croagh Patrick located?
The GPS Co-ordinates of Croagh Patrick are 53.7599° N, 9.6598° W.
Croagh Patrick is located near Westport, one of our favourite towns in the West of Ireland.
How long does it take to climb Croagh Patrick?
It roughly takes three hours and 30 minutes to complete an up-and-down climb of Croagh Patrick.
What should I wear to climb Croagh Patrick?
The weather in Ireland is unpredictable, so it is important to come prepared when climbing Croagh Patrick!
You should wear:
- Warm layers of clothing (weather can change from cold to hot quite frequently, so layers are ideal)
- A light, waterproof jacket (it can rain at any time in Ireland)
- Good broken-in walking shoes, preferably boots.
- Sun cream (even on overcast days, as sun and windburn can be deceiving)
What should I bring to Croagh Patrick?
It’s crucial to balance bringing everything you need and not carrying a heavy bag.
- Climbing sticks – an essential tool for steep parts of the mountain
- Bottles of water and a small snack
- Your phone. Arrange an estimated time of arrival back with someone. Plus, it doubles as a camera to capture the stunning views!
- Sunglasses, gloves or hats, depending on the weather
- Travel insurance (better safe than sorry!)
Do people climb Croagh Patrick Barefoot?
Croagh Patrick was originally a pilgrimage, so people climbed the mountain barefoot as a sign of penance. This added another challenge to the climb as the sharp rocks could easily cut the pilgrims.
We strongly recommend wearing the most protective footwear possible. Wearing shoes when climbing the mountain is not considered disrespectful, and it will help you avoid any painful injuries. Nowadays, most pilgrims wear shoes when climbing the mountain.
What facilities are offered near Croagh Patrick?
Toilets are located near the entrance, and showers are available for a minimal charge. There is also a craft/gift shop, a coffee shop/restaurant, and Campbells at the Reek Pub, which offers food and drink options.
What Route should I take when climbing Croagh Patrick?
There are several routes up the mountain. The most popular is the Pilgrim route, which is the easiest to find as it starts at the car park. Signs point to the trail from the car park.
The trail starts simple enough as a chiselled path leads walkers to a white statue of Saint Patrick and a gate that opens into the mountain. The trail has three parts; the first is the simple beginning, which connects to the shoulder of the hill and the second stage of the route.
This part of the trail can get steep at times. The final part of the journey is an impressively steep climb to the summit. Its necessary to remind people that it is okay to stop halfway and return to solid ground if you feel uncomfortable or tired; you will still see many beautiful sights on your way up.
It is often said that the journey down is more difficult due to the steep slope of the mountain. Take your time and bring walking sticks if possible.
Final Thoughts
You may choose to stay nearby after the climb. The surrounding area has many charming towns and welcoming villages that are very tourist-friendly.
We hope that you have enjoyed our article about Croagh Patrick. A fascinating history, combined with a challenging climb and spectacular views, has turned this Mayo location into one of Ireland’s travel gems! Have you ever climbed the Reek? We would love to hear your stories in the comments below!
