Saladin Citadel and Muhammad Ali Mosque

A magnificent landmark in Cairo, the capital of Egypt, is the Citadel of Cairo or the Citadel of Saladin, where the rulers of Egypt lived and ruled from the Citadel for close to 700 years, from the 13th to the 19th centuries. This Islamic-era fort was built by Salah ad-Din (Saladin) in 1176, the first sultan of Egypt who led a military campaign against the Crusaders. 

Who is Saladin?

Saladin was born in 1137/38 in Tikrīt, Mesopotamia (modern-day Iraq). He was the Sultan of Egypt, Syria, Yemen, and Palestine and founded the Ayyūbid dynasty. He fought against the Crusaders and won, capturing Jerusalem.

He strengthened Cairo’s fortifications by building the Cairo Citadel, now more popularly known as Saladin Citadel and extending the city walls. 

Location and Design

The Citadel of Cairo was built in a prominent and strategic position on the Mokattam hills near the centre of Cairo, so it overlooks the entire city. It is one of the most impressive military fortifications of its time due to its location and layout.

Today, Saladin Citadel has four gates: the El-Mokatam Gate, the New Gate, the Middle Gate, and the Citadel Gate. It also has about thirteen towers and four palaces, including the Palace Ablaq and Al-Gawhara Palace.

After Saladin, the Citadel underwent significant development during the Mamluk Sultanate until the reign of Sultan al-Nasir Muhammad in the 14th century. In the 19th century, Muhammad Ali Pasha tore down some of the older buildings and replaced them with new palaces you can see today. 

In the 20th century, the British occupation forces sometimes utilized the citadel as a military garrison, and then so did the Egyptian army until it was opened to the public in 1983. In 1976, UNESCO proclaimed the Citadel a World Heritage Site.

Throughout its history, the Citadel went through three main construction periods: the Ayyubid Era in the 12th century (during Saladin’s reign), the Mamluk era in the 14th century (under al-Nasir Muhammad), and during the reign of Muhammad Ali in the 19th century. 

The complex is divided into two main sections: the Northern Enclosure (where the Military Museum is now located) and the Southern Enclosure (where the Mosque of Muhammad Ali Pasha is located). 

The Northern Enclosure was usually employed by military personnel, while the Southern Enclosure was the sultan’s residence. Another enclosure was where the royal stables of the Mamluks were kept. However, these functional distinctions were erased mainly in the 19th century under Muhammad Ali Pasha, who removed the entire site and constructed buildings for various functions.

An open field lies west of the Citadel, a training ground and a military parade ground. At the northern end of this field was another square known as Rumayla Square, which was used as a horse market because it was close to the royal stables. Some royal and religious ceremonies were also held there. Now, it is a large roundabout known as the Citadel Square next to the historical mosques of Sultan Hassan and al-Rifa’i.

Foundation of the Castle in the Ayyubid Period during the 12th Century

The construction of the Citadel was ordered by the Kurdish Ayyubid ruler Saladin between 1176 and 1183 as a fortification to protect the city from Crusaders and to become the location from which the government ruled the country.

They also built a 20-kilometre wall surrounding Cairo and the former capital, Fustat, with the Citadel in the centre. While the Citadel was completed in 1183–1184, the wall’s construction continued long after Saladin’s death and appears not to have been completed. 

Most of the structure of the Citadel is made of limestone. Bab al-Mudarraj is the only original gate that has survived to this day. It can be found within the walls of the Northern Enclosure, which nowadays lies between the Harem Palace (National Military Museum) and the newer Bab al-Jadid Gate (New Gate). It was initially the Citadel’s main gate, and its name comes from the stone steps (darraj) that led up to it from the path that connected the Citadel to the city below. On this particular gate, a foundation inscription was discovered that specifies the completion date of the Citadel as 1183-1184. 

Saladin’s successors, including Sultan al-‘Adil, Saladin’s brother and successor, who reigned from 1200 to 1218, continued to add to the citadel’s construction in one way or another. It was probably finished under the reign of al-Kamil (1218-1238). 

The rounded towers in the Northern Enclosure date back to Saladin’s era, while the significant rectangular towers date to al-Adil’s reign. The two round towers, Burj al-Ramla (“Tower of Sand”) and Burj al-Hadid (“Tower of Iron”), also date back to Saladin’s time but were reinforced later on.

The most significant construction done by Sultan al-Kamil was the palaces in the southern section of the Citadel, as he became the first ruler actually to move there in 1206. He also built a mosque, a royal library, a “hall of justice”, and a horse market on what became Rumayla Square (the square between the Citadel and Sultan Hassan’s mosque today), as well as the square to the west and south of the Citadel which was used for training and military parades. 

Al-Kamil also built the first water aqueduct along the top of the city walls to transfer water from the Nile to the Citadel.

Afterwards, Sultan al-Salih, who ruled from 1240 to 1249, moved away from the Citadel and built a new fort on Roda Island, but the Mamluks, who ruled from 1250 to 1517, the Citadel became the permanent residence of the sultans.

The Citadel in the Mamluk Period from the 13th to the 16th Century

The Bahri Mamluks continued to develop the Citadel as they expanded the Southern Enclosure, and their subsequent rulers either built or rebuilt the throne hall, the central mosque, the palaces, and several other structures.

They also built Bab al-Qulla, a gate that separates the Southern and Northern Enclosures of the Citadel, to make access to the Southern Enclosure more exclusive as a royal residence. Part of it was reserved for the harem and the private residence of the sultan and his family. 

A new hall was called Dar al-Dhahab (“the Hall of Gold”). It was used as a private reception hall and is now the location of the present Police Museum. The Qubba al-Zahiriyya (“the Dome of al-Zahir”), a magnificently decorated hall, was also constructed as an audience hall or throne hall but was demolished later and replaced with another domed structure called the Qubba al-Mansuriya.

They also built the Tower of the Lions, with its stone-carved frieze of lions on the top. Although later construction obscured the tower over the years, its remains were discovered in the late 20th century, and you can now see them on the northern side of the Police Museum. Over time, elite regiments of mamluks (soldiers) resided in the various towers of the Citadel.

In 1291-1292, another reception hall, the Qa’a al-Ashrafiyya was built, and its remains were also excavated in the 20th century, just west of the present-day gate called Bab al-‘Alam (Gate of the Flag), across from the Police Museum. In its time, as evidenced by the excavations, the hall walls were decorated with coloured marble panelling above, which were marble mosaics with marble reliefs and glass mosaics. 

The hall also had a marble fountain in the centre, and the floor was paved with marble mosaics. 

Once again, the domed throne was demolished and replaced with another, the Iwan al-Ashrafiyya. Still, this time, the new throne hall was painted with pictures of al-Ashraf’s commanders, with their ranks inscribed above their images.

The greatest builder of the Citadel during the Mamluk period was al-Nasir Muhammad, another sultan who reigned thrice between 1293 and 1341. He expanded the borders of the southern enclosure, built new palaces, a private courtyard, and a garden devoted to his harem, and completed and renovated the water aqueduct.

Among the most critical constructions was the Ablaq Palace, built in 1313-1314 and used for regular receptions and private ceremonies. The palace’s interior consisted of a reception hall with two iwans, one leading to the outside loggia overlooking the city. In contrast, the other iwan leads to a private passage to the Great Iwan, or the throne room, which leads to three inner palaces attached to the harem. Unlike other palaces built on the hill, this palace was built in a different position, slightly hidden from view as a sort of refuge for the Sultan.

Although all that remains of it now are ruins, the palace was said to have been decorated with marble floors, gold panelling, coloured-glass windows from Cyprus, Arabic inscriptions, colourful mosaics with floral patterns, and gilded ceilings.

The Reign of Muhammad Ali

Muhammad Ali was an Albanian Pasha appointed by the Ottoman sultan in 1805 to restore order after the French occupation of Egypt (1798-1801). Afterwards, he established himself as a de facto independent ruler of the country. Due to the major developments and constructions during his reign, he is largely considered the founder of modern Egypt. 

A major historical event took place under his rule at the Citadel. In 1811, he wanted to consolidate his power, so he orchestrated a violent coup by killing the remaining Mamluk leaders in the country. He invited them to a celebration banquet in the Citadel, and as they were leaving and passing along the road leading from the upper Citadel to Bab al-Azab, regiments of his Albanian gunmen opened fire from above and massacred them.

Muhammad Ali built his Harem Palace (now the National Military Museum) in the Northern Enclosure. He also rebuilt the Bab al-Qulla gate and, in 1825, the Bab al-Jadid (“New Gate”).

By the time of Khedive Isma’il (Muhammad Ali’s son and successor), the Citadel was no longer used as the residence of Egypt’s ruler, as the Khedive moved the court to the new Abdeen Palace in downtown Cairo in 1874.

View the City of Cairo from Above

A popular vantage point at the Citadel of Saladin is the watchtower, from which you can see all of Cairo from above. This point was considered the highest in the city at the time.

The Four Mosques in the Cairo Citadel

Al-Nasir Muhammad’s Mosque

Sultan Al-Nasir Muhammad’s Mosque is the only central structure built during his reign that remains at the Citadel. It is located in the Southern Enclosure and was built in 1318 to serve as the new grand mosque of the Citadel. Some of its columns date back to the Pharaonic era.

Mosque of Muhammad Ali

The Mosque of Muhammad Ali replaced the Al-Nasir Muhammad Mosque as the main mosque in the citadel. It was built between 1828 and 1848 on the summit of the citadel in the Ottoman style in memory of Tusun Pasha, Muhammad Ali’s second son, who died in 1816.

It also symbolises Muhammad Ali Pasha’s efforts to erase the remnants of the Mamluk legacy. In 1825, the Great Iwan and the Ablaq Palace of al-Nasir Muhammad were torn down to make way for the new mosque. Muhammad Ali Pasha is also buried in the mosque, and his tomb remains there. Muhammad Ali’s mosque, with its large dome and tall Ottoman minarets, is one of the most significant landmarks in Cairo today.

Mosque of Sulayman Pasha

Built in 1528, it was the first Ottoman-style mosque to be built there. It is in the Northern Enclosure, north of the Harem Palace (now the Military Museum). It was built on the remains of the Mosque of Sidi Sariyya, built by Abu-Mansur Qasta, an amir (Prince) from the Fatimid era (an era that predates the construction of the Citadel). The tomb where the Prince was buried in 1140 still exists in the mosque today.

Mosque of al-‘Azab

Built by the Mamluk amir (Prince) Ahmad Katkhuda in 1697, this mosque is named after the Ottoman military regiments known as ‘Azaban, who lived in this part of the Citadel during the Ottoman period. Sadly, it is not accessible to the public.

Important Attractions at the Cairo Citadel

Yusuf’s Well

To provide the Citadel with a water supply, Saladin built an 85-meter deep well known as the Well of Joseph (or Bir Yusuf), after Saladin’s birth name. The well is primarily considered a masterpiece of medieval construction and has lasted to this day.

Al-Gawhara Palace Museum

Al-Gawhara is a palace and museum built in 1814 during Muhammad Ali Pasha’s reign. Artisans from Greece, Turkey, Bulgaria, and Albania designed the palace. The Palace was where Muhammad Ali held audiences and received guests. It contained a 1000 kg chandelier sent to Muhammad Ali Pasha by Louis-Philippe I of France and the throne gifted to him from the King of Italy.

The Carriage Museum

The Carriage Museum opened in 1983. Its collection includes rare Royal Carriages from different historical periods, dating back to the reign of Khedive Ismail until King Farouk, which ended in 1952, and other unique antiques.

The Egyptian Military Museum

Initially established in 1937, the Egyptian Military Museum was located in the former building of the Egyptian Ministry of War in downtown Cairo. It was moved several times until November 1949, when it finally settled at the Harem Palace at the Cairo Citadel. The museum showcases many of the wars and battles that Egypt underwent throughout its history and various types of weapons, such as canons, tanks, and many others.

The Police Museum

The museum is located north of the Bab al-‘Alam Gate, with magnificent views of the city below. It is right next to the Citadel’s former prison and showcases famous political assassinations, displays of the murder weapons used, and police uniforms from different time periods.

The Citadel Prison

Located next to the Police Museum, this prison was established by Khedive Ismail as a prison for foreigners who commit crimes. It was maintained by his son and successor, Khedive Tewfik, who decided to turn it into a prison for Egyptians and foreigners. It is now kept as an attraction recounting the history of those locked behind these bars.

Cairo Citadel Tickets and Opening Times

The Cairo Citadel is open every day from 9:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m.; tickets are EGP 30 for Egyptians and EGP 180 for foreigners.

The Cairo Citadel, or the Saladin Citadel, is one of Egyptian history’s most significant and noteworthy constructions. From its construction to this day, it remains an essential landmark in the city and all of Egypt, as thousands of tourists and locals flock to the site daily. Established as a government centre and residence for Egyptian rulers for hundreds of years, it carries so much history and culture within its walls that it has to remain on all of our bucket lists of must-see attractions in Cairo.