Discover Place des Vosges: Paris’s Historic Square of Elegance

Place des Vosges is a historical gem located on the border of Paris’s 3rd and 4th arrondissements. As the oldest planned square in both Paris and the Marais district, it holds a significant place in the city’s architectural heritage. Originally known as Place Royale, it was designed in the early 17th century to bring a sense of order and grandeur to the area.

During the 17th and 18th centuries, Place des Vosges was home to Paris’s noble families, making it one of the most prestigious and sought-after addresses in the city. The square’s stately design and prime location contributed to its reputation as an exclusive residential area.

Today, Place des Vosges remains a key element in the chic and historic charm of the Le Marais district. Its enduring elegance and historical significance continue to attract Parisians and visitors, adding to the square’s timeless allure.

Histoire de la Place des Vosges – Place des Vosges History

The history of Place des Vosges, formerly known as Place Royale, begins with its location on the site of the Hôtel des Tournelles, a royal residence. After the death of Pierre, the Bishop of Paris, the Hôtel des Tournelles was sold to Duc de Berry, Charles VI’s brother. Eventually, the property came into the possession of Charles VI, who resided there from 1417.

For a brief period, the Hôtel served as the residence of John of Lancaster, Duke of Bedford, during the British occupation of France following Charles VI’s death. Later, it became a royal residence for Charles of Orléans, the father of Francis I of France. Although French kings preferred other residences, such as the Louvre Palace, the Hôtel des Tournelles was occasionally used by their mothers or mistresses. The Hôtel hosted numerous lavish events, including the “danse macabre” for Charles, Duke of Orleans, in 1451 and King Henry II’s coronation.

The final festivity was a grand tournament celebrating the double marriage of Elisabeth de France to Philip II of Spain and Marguerite de France to the Duke of Savoy. It was during this event that Henry II was gravely injured in a jousting match, which led to his death.

The Italian princess Catherine de Medici, who disliked the medieval architecture of the Hôtel des Tournelles, saw the death of her husband, Henry II, as an opportunity to transform the site. She repurposed the building into a gunpowder store and ordered its demolition. Under her regency for her underage sons, Catherine directed the use of some materials from the Hôtel to construct more modern palaces, including the Madrid and Tuileries.

Place Royale, now known as Place des Vosges, emerged from Henry IV’s vision to utilise parts of the Hôtel’s site. After his initial plan to establish a silk, gold, and silver factory failed, Henry IV instructed his minister, the Duke of Sully, to design the square in 1604. Henry IV granted large portions of the square to his noblemen, who were required to build pavilions adhering to the original design laid out by architects Androuet du Cerceau and Claude Chastillon. Construction of the square began in 1605 and was completed by 1612. Measuring 140 by 140 metres, Place des Vosges was one of the earliest examples of European royal city planning, following the Plaza Mayor in Madrid.

The inauguration of Place Royale celebrated the engagement of Louis XIII and Anne of Austria, setting a precedent for future royal residences. The square is distinguished by its uniform red brick façades and matching rooflines. Notably, two pavilions were constructed higher than the surrounding buildings, providing entrances through triple arches. These pavilions were intended for the King and Queen, although no royals lived in the square. Anne of Austria was the only royal to reside briefly in the Pavilion de la Reine.

Before the French Revolution, Place Royale served as a prominent gathering place for the French nobility. The square played a crucial role in Paris’s urban development, inspiring the creation of other venues and a backdrop for the aristocracy. Renovations, ordered by Henry IV, included the establishment of Place Dauphine and other significant additions to the city, such as the Louvre Palace, Pont Neuf, and Hôpital Saint Louis.

During the revolution, Place Royale was renamed Place des Vosges in honour of the Vosges department, which was the first to pay taxes to support the Revolutionary Army in 1799. After Napoleon’s fall and the Restoration, the name reverted to Place Royale but was changed back to Place des Vosges during the French Second Republic in 1870. Cardinal Richelieu commissioned the bronze equestrian statue of Louis XIII, and the square’s garden design was completed in 1680.

Today, Place des Vosges is a vibrant cultural and tourist destination. It houses historic hotels, public libraries, museums, and galleries. The Hôtel de Sully, a 17th-century mansion, now hosts the Centre des Monuments Nationaux, France’s national heritage organisation. The Pavillon du Roi, once the King of France’s residence, now displays valuable artefacts. The square continues to be a cherished part of Paris’s rich history and cultural landscape.

How to Get to Place des Vosges

There are several ways to reach Place des Vosges, conveniently served by Paris’s extensive public transportation network. Here’s a guide to getting to the former Place Royale.

1. Train Stops
   Place des Vosges is accessible via train lines L and N. From various stations in Paris, such as Edenred in Malakoff, the journey takes approximately 71 minutes. For real-time updates on train schedules and potential disruptions, consider using a public transportation app or website.
2. Metro Stops
   Metro lines 1 and 7 run close to Place des Vosges. If you are travelling from Gare du Nord, take Metro Line 5 to Breguet-Sabin station, which takes around 9 minutes. From there, it’s a 6-minute walk to the square. Trains to Breguet-Sabin depart from Gare du Nord every 5 minutes. For a more precise walking route, you might find a local map or navigation app useful.
3. Bus Stops
   Several bus routes also serve the area around Place des Vosges, including lines 69, 72, 76, 87, and 96. For example, a bus from Passerelle des Vignes in Puteaux takes about 52 minutes to reach the square. Alternatively, line 91 from Gare du Nord arrives in approximately 20 minutes, followed by a 10-minute walk to Place des Vosges. For up-to-date information on bus schedules, a public transportation app can provide real-time updates.

For those who prefer more direct options, taxis and ride-sharing services are also available throughout Paris. These can be especially useful if you have luggage or require additional assistance.

Place des Vosges Hotels Particulier

A hôtel particulier is a private mansion or grand townhouse, often akin to a British townhouse or mansion. The Place Royale, now known as Place des Vosges, was rejuvenated in 1605 with the construction of several pavilions commissioned by Henry IV. Following their near abandonment, these pavilions underwent restoration in stages. Here are some notable hôtels particuliers in Place des Vosges:

Pavillon du Roi – N°1

This 16th-century building, resembling a tower, originally served as the primary residence for the King of France. Designed by Pierre Lescot and constructed between 1553 and 1556, it was considered a visual replacement for the medieval Louvre Tower demolished by Francis I. Influential architectural elements include the bossed quoins on the west and south façades, inspired by Antonio da Sangallo the Younger’s Palazzo Farnese in Rome.

The ground floor housed the Royal Council and, briefly, the Académie Française in 1672, while the first floor contained the King’s private chambers and ceremonial rooms. The building was significantly remodelled from 1806 to 1817 by Pierre Fontaine, who harmonised its height with the Louvre Colonnade and reconfigured the interiors. The Salle des Sept-Cheminées, a high-ceilinged room created by Félix Duban, showcases vibrant decorations revealed after a 2020-2021 cleaning.

Hôtel Coulanges – N°1 Bis

It was built in 1607 for Philip I of Coulanges, and this mansion was the birthplace of Marie de Rabutin-Chantal (Madame de Sévigné). After the Coulanges family sold it in 1637, it had various notable occupants, including post-impressionist painter Georges Dufrénoy and dancer Isadora Duncan. In the early 1960s, Béatrice Cottin began a major restoration, but following her death and subsequent legal battles, Xavier Niel acquired it in 2016. The hôtel, classified as a historical monument, retains significant architectural elements, including façades, roofs, and a vaulted gallery.

Hôtel de Rohan-Guéménée – N°6 (Maison de Victor Hugo)

Victor Hugo resided in this building for 16 years. Built-in 1605 and named after the de Rohans family, it was transformed into a museum through a donation by French novelist Paul Meurice. The museum includes the antechamber, Chinese living room, medieval-style dining room, and Hugo’s room, where he passed away in 1885. It is open Tuesday through Sunday from 10:00 am to 6:00 pm, closing on Mondays and public holidays.

Hôtel de Sully – N°7

Constructed between 1624 and 1630 for financier Mesme Gallet, this 17th-century mansion is now home to the Centre des Monuments Nationaux. It was acquired by the Duke of Sully, Maximilien de Béthune, in 1634. Following various modifications, including a significant restoration from 1944 to 1973, the hôtel is a prominent example of historic preservation.

Hôtel de Fourcy – N°8

Located between Hôtel de Rohan-Guéménée and Hôtel de Châtillon, this mansion was home to poet Théophile Gautier from 1828 to 1834. Gautier established a vocational school here, which continued to occupy the mansion’s rooms. The hôtel was donated to the City of Paris and has been used for educational purposes.

Hôtel de Chaulnes – N°9

Also known as Descures Hotel and Hotel Nicolay-Goussainville, this hôtel was originally owned by Descures and later by the Duke of Chaulnes. After various ownership changes and classification as a historical monument in 1954, it now houses the Academy of Architecture and Galerie Historisimus.

Hôtel de Vitry – N°24

Known by several names, including Hôtel de Guiche and Hôtel de Boufflers, this mansion on the north side of Place des Vosges was classified as a historical monument in 1920 and 1956. It remains a private property.

Hôtel de l’Escalopier – N°25

Located on the east side of Place des Vosges, this mansion, once owned by Pierre Gobelin du Quesnoy and later Gaspard de l’Escalopier, has been private property since 1956. The façade and main features are classified as historical monuments.

Pavillon de la Reine and Hôtel d’Espinoy – N°28

The Pavillon de la Reine, built from 1605 to 1608, is distinguished by its height and architectural details, including a central arch with the Sun of the Medici. It has housed various occupants, including a gambling den, and was classified as a historical monument in 1984. Adjacent Hôtel d’Espinoy, with its notable wrought iron staircase, was also designated a historical monument in 1984.

Current Status and Accessibility

Many of these hôtels particuliers are private residences or museums, with some open to the public or offering guided tours. For current use and visitor information, checking local resources or official websites is recommended.

Synagogue de la Place des Vosges – Hôtel de Ribault – N*14

Also known as the Charles Lich Synagogue, it is located on the first floor of the Hôtel Ribault. Charles Lich is a survivor of the Auschwitz concentration camp and was rabbi of the deportees of France from 1995. Lich received the rabbi title as an honour since he didn’t get rabbinical training or study in yeshiva. He is a co-founder of the Synagogue de la Place des Vosges.

Lich was the hazzan of the Synagogue in rue des Tournelles. After the synagogue’s rite change, he began to form a minyan on the first floor of the 14th pavilion of Place des Vosges, formerly the premises of the Circle of the Marais Studies. In 2006, in honour of the rabbi, the name changed from Place des Vosges Synagogue to Charles Lich Synagogue.

Place des Vosges Fountains

The beautiful Place des Vosges looks even more prestigious from an aerial view; the perfect square encompasses a massive garden. The green area at the centre of the square is free to access and offers a serene escape from the buzzing city life outside.

You will see four identical fountains at each corner of the central greenery. Built by the famous sculptor Jean-Pierre Cortot in the first part of the 19th century, the four fountains are decorated with 16 lion heads that dispense water. The fountains are named by their location within the garden: northeast, southeast, northwest, and southwest.  

Who Lived in Place des Vosges?

Place des Vosges has been home to an array of notable residents over the centuries. Among them was the poet Théophile Gautier, who resided in Hôtel de Fourcy, and the renowned French novelist Victor Hugo, who lived in Hôtel de Rohan-Guéménée. The area also houses influential figures such as Madame de Sévigné and artists like Georges Dufrénoy. The rich history of the square reflects its importance as a prestigious and culturally significant address in Paris.

Madame de Sevigné

Marie de Rabutin-Chantal is one of the prominent figures of 17th-century literature in France. She was born in Hotel Coulanges (N*1bis) in 1626, which her grandfather owned at the time. Marie lived in Hotel Coulanges until she was eleven years old when the mansion was sold in 1637.

Several years later, Marie lived in the Hotel de Coulanges for a few years before marrying and becoming Madame de Sevigne. She became famous for the letters she wrote, many of which were addressed to her daughter, Françoise-Marguerite de Sévigné.

Victor Hugo

The place where one of France’s most revered poets and novelists is called Hôtel de Rohan-Guéménée, otherwise known as N*6 on the Place des Vosges. Born in 1802, Hugo wrote in different genres throughout his life, from poems to satires to even political speeches and critical essays. While he is most known worldwide for his two famous novels, Les Misérables and Notre-Dame de Paris, he is most famous in France for his poetry collections, such as Les Contemplations.

After buying an apartment floor in the Hôtel, Victor Hugo lived there with his wife for 16 years before he died in 1885. The City of Paris now owns the building, and it has been converted into a museum for the memory of France’s most celebrated writer. The museum is open to visitors from Tuesday to Sunday from 10:00 am to 6:00 pm and closes on Mondays and public holidays.

Maximilien de Bethune, the First Duke of Sully

The first Duke of Sully is known for being Henry IV’s advisor. Maximilien was born in 1560. Not only was Sully a councillor of the King, but he was also an esteemed statesman. He is known for implementing several policies that helped to revitalise the French state, and many politicians have copied his methods for generations.

Sully was also put in charge of supervising Henry IV’s reviving of the Hôtel des Tournelles after its demolition. From this initiative, the Place Royale, or the current Place des Vosges, was born. Henry IV gave specific instructions that the place’s layout must be preserved, as he donated parts of it to his noblemen to build and reuse.

The Duke of Sully bought Hôtel de Sully in 1634 and finished decorating it. By that time, the hotel was completely furnished, and he spent his last years living in the mansion. Sully had a literary talent; he wrote a memoir that contains many of the political and economic matters he faced, with a bit of fiction added here and there.

Poet Théophile Gautier

Pierre Jules Théophile Gautier was a French poet and writer of many genres. Gautier was known as a defender of Romanticism. However, his works didn’t fall solely under this category. Gautier’s works ranged from Parnassianism to Symbolism and from Modernism.

Gautier moved with his parents to settle in Paris, particularly Le Marais. From 1828 to 1834, he lived in the Hotel de Fourcy (N*8), where a vocational school started bearing his name. The mansion remained the property of Gautier’s heirs until they donated it to the City of Paris on the condition that the school keep its occupation of the mansion.

Georges Dufrénoy

Although he was born in the southern suburb of Thiais, post-impressionist Georges Dufrénoy lived with his family in Place des Vosges all his life. Georges was hesitant between studying architecture and painting at the age of 17. He decided to become a painter and went on to become one of France’s prominent painters in the late 19th and early 20th centuries.

The hotel where Dufrénoy lived is called Hotel de Bassompierre or N*23. The hotel is on the north side of the Place des Vosges in the 3rd arrondissement in Paris. In 1734, the Hotel de Bassompierre was attached to the adjacent Hotel du Cardinal de Richelieu.

Different parts of the Hotel de Bassompierre were classified as historical monuments over time. In the beginning, in 1920, the façades and roofs were classified. Followed by the decorated ceiling of Madame Dufrénoy’s apartment in 1953. Finally, the vaulted gallery, along with the doors and staircases, was built in 1955.

Hotels near Place des Vosges, Paris

A variety of hotels with differing ratings and amenities can be found close to Place des Vosges. Here are some excellent options:

Hotel Alhambra

Situated in the 11th arrondissement, just one kilometre from Place des Vosges, the Hotel Alhambra offers a tranquil escape with its private garden. Soundproofed guestrooms and a delicious breakfast buffet contribute to its popularity as a budget-friendly choice.

• A twin room with breakfast for two nights costs €237, plus taxes and charges.
• A double room with garden and city views, breakfast, and additional in-room services is available for €253, plus taxes and charges.

D’win Hotel

Located in the 4th arrondissement, less than a kilometre from Place des Vosges, the D’win Hotel is conveniently close to the Hôtel de Ville metro station. Modern furnishings and a range of services create a comfortable stay. The iconic Notre Dame de Paris is just a nine-minute walk away.

• A Comfortable Double Room for two nights is priced at €369, plus taxes and charges. Breakfast can be added for an extra €9.
• A Family Room accommodating three adults costs €445, plus taxes and charges. The hotel is renowned for its friendly and helpful staff.

Hotel Fabric

This stylish hotel, housed in a former textile factory, is situated in the 11th arrondissement, one kilometre from Place des Vosges. Guests can enjoy complimentary access to the hammam and fitness room, with additional options for breakfast and massage treatments.

• A Club Double Room for two nights is priced at €420, including taxes and charges. Breakfast in the communal lounge is available for an extra €18.
• A Deluxe Room accommodating three guests is offered at €662, with free cancellation and no upfront payment required.

Note: Prices and availability are subject to change. Check for the latest rates and offers when booking.

Place des Vosges, Paris Restaurants

In the heart of Le Marais, Place des Vosges is surrounded by a variety of restaurants offering delightful dining experiences. Here are some top picks:

L’Ange 20

44 rue des Tournelles, 75004 Paris, France
A charming eatery with a unique interior design featuring ribbed newspapers and posters on the ceiling, L’Ange 20 serves exceptional French cuisine. Enjoy classics like Foie Gras, pomme caramélisée, and crispy goat cheese with salad. With a cosy, intimate atmosphere, the menu ranges from 38 to 42 Euros. Reservations are recommended.
Opening Hours: Tuesday to Sunday, 12:00 pm – 2:30 pm and 7:00 pm – 10:00 pm.
Dietary Options: Vegetarian-friendly

La Place Royale

2 B Place des Vosges, 75004 Paris, France
Offering a lovely view of the garden in Place des Vosges, La Place Royale is perfect for relaxing after exploring Le Marais. The restaurant features French cuisine with options for vegetarians and gluten-free diets. Enjoy dishes priced between 17 and 49 Euros in a serene setting.
Opening Hours: Daily, 12:00 pm – 10:00 pm.
Dietary Options: Vegetarian, gluten-free
Booking: Reservations recommended

Bistrot de L’Oulette

38 rue des Tournelles, 75004 Paris, France
This warm and inviting bistro offers the best of southwestern French cuisine. Delight in dishes such as Beef Charolais, tomato salad, and Pear Croustade, with prices ranging from 17 to 40 Euros. The ambience is casual and welcoming, making it a great spot for both intimate dinners and casual meals.
Opening Hours: Tuesday to Sunday, 12:00 pm – 2:30 pm and 7:00 pm – 10:00 pm.
Dietary Options: Vegetarian-friendly
Booking: Recommended for dinner

Ristorante Italiano 0039

24 rue des Tournelles, 75004 Paris, France
Craving Italian cuisine? Ristorante Italiano 0039 offers authentic Mediterranean and Tuscan dishes, including Spinach Ravioli and Beef Fillet. With prices between 22 and 35 Euros, this restaurant boasts a warm, inviting atmosphere perfect for enjoying hearty Italian fare.
Opening Hours: Daily, 12:00 pm – 3:00 pm and 7:00 pm – 10:00 pm.
Dietary Options: Vegetarian-friendly
Booking: Reservations advised

Place des Vosges, Paris Cafés

When you need a break while exploring Le Marais, these charming cafés offer the perfect spot for a light meal or a refreshing cup of coffee.

Le Peloton Café

17 rue du Pont Louis Philippe, Le Marais, 75004 Paris, France
Nestled in the Marais district, Le Peloton Café is renowned for its freshly ground coffee and relaxed atmosphere. Enjoy a variety of homemade sweet and savoury waffles, tarts, and cookies while you people-watch by the Seine. The café’s wooden bar adds to its cosy vibe. Prices range from 5 to 18 Euros.
Opening Hours: Monday to Sunday, 8:30 am – 6:00 pm.
Dietary Options: Vegetarian-friendly
Booking: No reservation needed

Alma the Chimney Cake Factory

59 Boulevard Beaumarchais, 75003 Paris, France
Just a short distance from Place des Vosges, Alma offers a unique taste of chimney cakes alongside well-roasted coffee. This small and cosy café is perfect for a sweet treat and a relaxing break. Prices range from 4 to 12 Euros.
Opening Hours: Tuesday to Sunday, 10:00 am – 7:00 pm.
Dietary Options: Limited optionsBooking: No reservation needed

Strada Café

94 rue du Temple, 75003 Paris, France
Located near Centre Pompidou, Strada Café is known for its delicious cakes, including banana and Nutella varieties. This café also serves a light breakfast with dishes like sunny-side-up eggs. Prices range from 7 to 20 Euros. The café has a casual and friendly atmosphere.
Opening Hours: Tuesday to Sunday, 8:00 am – 6:00 pm.
Dietary Options: Vegetarian-friendly
Booking: No reservation needed

Patisserie Carette, Paris Place des Vosges

25 Place des Vosges, 75003 Paris, France
Situated directly on Place des Vosges, Patisserie Carette is perfect for starting your day, taking a mid-day break, or enjoying a hot chocolate. With outdoor seating overlooking the beautiful square, it offers a charming atmosphere. Renowned for its macaroons and French desserts, Patisserie Carette features a Macaroon Menu, Savoury Menu, and Sweet Menu. Prices for macaroons start at 8 Euros for 100 grams, with other sweets ranging from 5 to 8 Euros each.
Opening Hours: Daily, 9:00 am – 7:00 pm.
Dietary Options: Limited options
Booking: Reservations recommended for groups

Place des Vosges, Paris Shopping

A trip to Paris wouldn’t be complete without indulging in some retail therapy. While the city is renowned for its high-end boutiques and global brands, there are also charming shops near Place des Vosges where you can discover unique items and daily necessities. Here’s a guide to some must-visit stores:

Monoprix

71 Rue Saint-Antoine, 75004 Paris, France
Often compared to the American Target, Monoprix offers a wide range of products under one roof. The store features a grocery section on the ground floor, with toiletries, cleaning supplies, and a variety of household items available upstairs. You’ll find clothing for all ages and a comprehensive selection of cosmetics. Monoprix also provides indoor services such as photocopying and digital photo development. Ideal for stocking up on essentials, Monoprix is open daily from 9:00 am to 8:50 pm, with shorter hours on Sundays from 9:00 am to 12:50 pm.
Price Range: Budget-friendly

Weekday

121 Rue Vieille du Temple, 75003 Paris, France
Weekday is a trendy fashion store catering to both men and women. Known for its stylish yet affordable clothing, Weekday is particularly praised for its jeans collection. The store maintains a fashionable edge, keeping up with Parisian trends. Open from 11:00 am to 8:00 pm Monday to Saturday and from 12:00 pm to 6:00 pm on Sundays. Online shopping is available with free shipping on orders over 177 Euros.
Price Range: Mid-range

Papier Tigre

5 Rue des Filles du Calvaire, 75003 Paris, France
Papier Tigre is a concept store that caters to stationery enthusiasts. It offers a delightful selection of notebooks, journals, pens, desk accessories, and more. The shop features unique collections such as Color Inspiration and Cool Kids Only, making it a perfect spot for memorable gifts. They also have special offers, such as a gift pouch with five ballpoint pens for purchases over 60 Euros.
Opening Hours: Monday to Saturday, 10:00 am – 7:00 pm; Closed on Sundays.
Price Range: Mid-range to high-end

Place des Vosges TripAdvisor Reviews

When spending your time in and around Place des Vosges, you will surely not get bored. Not only you’ll have your hands full, but also your soul and most importantly your belly. With its rich history, calm aesthetic and original beauty, tourists, both French and foreigners, always want to come back.

Recent visitors to Place des Vosges described the square on TripAdvisor as the perfect spot to sit and relax after exploring Le Marais; it’s great if you have kids as well since they can play in the greenery around you while you enjoy the warm sun and marvel at the beauty of the fountains.

Another review stated that Place des Vosges is the best square in all of France, where you can relax, grab a bite at one of the surrounding restaurants and breathe in the history of the area. One reviewer even said they come back to Place des Vosges every time they are in Paris!

I bet you would gladly spend days in and out of Place des Vosges, and I can almost swear you wouldn’t get bored!